Sunday, August 5, 2012

There's Magic in the Air at Cloyde’s Steak & Lobster House


Cloyde’s Steak and Lobster House, cantilevered over beautiful Venetian Bay, has been one of Naples’ few waterfront spots for two decades. Aging founding owner Cloyde Pate let the aging proud lady drift downhill, and people stopped coming. Fortunately now, things have greatly changed.  Cloyde’s dynamic new proprietor, Michael Hocter, has revitalized the spot into a refreshingly attractive destination, with food quality, pricing and service to match.
Yes, it's a Dolphin, One of Three, Seen from Our Window!
It gets better!  Where else can one additionally  have drinks or dine unobstructively overlooking a beautiful bay, smiling as pods of dolphins leap and kayakers glide past?  Exactly! This is a rare gem that is constantly improving, especially with Michael adding the monthly supper club evening’s entertainment for only $30…Yes, nothing else comes close for a night out on the town!
Michael Hocter dined a few times at Cloyde’s in 2009, heard it was for sale, and bought it. With his years of restaurant expertise, he and  Executive Chef Smith “Smitty” Saintheard have been perfecting traditional American cuisine.
Prepti Claisara  Consults with Michael Hocter, on the Line
It is an art to cook a steak, prime rib, lobster tail or shrimp just right, time after time, and they do just that. If you instead seek colorful foams, expensive microgreens, $300 tasting menus, ingredients you can’t pronounce and peculiar tasting con-fusion concoctions all too often delivered in micro-sized portions-please go elsewhere.  
    I ate at Cloyde’s a few weeks ago, and returned just to try the $30/per person (plus any drink tab, tip and tax) monthly Supper Club Soiree. That's why this write up is a "double header". And yes, I’ll be back for more!

There's optional valet parking-an elegant touch. Enter, and often Michael Hocter will greet you and escort you to your table. As one woman said "He's so friendly-just like a warm teddy bear!" Reservations are helpful to get a window-side seat; not a problem as most seats have a good water view through the tall windows.

   The $30 supper club menu starts with not one, but two “Opening Acts”-a  hefty trio of quite plump, slightly sweet perfectly cooked jumbo shrimp  in an iced cocktail glass, graced by a half dozen petite shrimp, atop a delicious cocktail sauce that's alive with just the right balance of heat and sweet.
Kori Gowan of Merle Norman Cosmetic Studio and Spa, with Her Shrimp Cocktail
Then, enjoy the hearts of Romaine salad, tasty with just the rich green parts of the leaf, aged Parmesan cheese, butter-crisped croutons and freshly made Caesar’s dressing.
Have a drink, or go for a dance or two to the voice and live music of  talented entertainer Robert DiLeo.
 He knows all the favorites, and some oldies you may never have heard of! Slow dance to “Volare,” speed it up with Sinatra’s “New York, New York,” and   slow it down with Dean Martin’s hit “That’s Amore.” People aren't shy-the dance floor fills up fast!
 During our evening, people could easily see a trio of dolphins that swam under the restaurant and then off to the other side of the Bay.
 Visitors were busy with cameras recording their first ever dolphin sightings! It’s not rare-one server said seeing at least one dolphin an evening is a pretty frequent sighting.
Now, sit back and choose your one entree  from three- surf ‘n turf, roasted prime rib of beef or grilled cedar plank salmon accompanied by baked or sweet potato and green beans or fresh asparagus. 
    There's about 20 wines by the glass, priced from $7-11, and a good assortment of bottles at wallet-friendly prices. I was very, very happy with the Coppola "Director's Cut" Cabernet Sauvignon for $62. Check-you'll find it's marked up quite a bit higher elsewhere. Bottles are available from $32 and up.  The cucumber martini is my refreshingly crisp summer favorite.
 My friend’s certified Prime roasted prime rib of beef came as requested, properly cooked, and  with a tenderness that’s not commonly found in any but the top restaurants.
The Nebraska beef is rubbed with a goodly spice mix that nicely complements the beef, then slow roasted for 8 hours. My tablemates all ordered the baked sweet potato (rather than the regualr baked potato)  with our dishes. It’s cooked till you could cut it with a glance. I loved mine plain; others  topped it with  the accompanying granulated sugar, sour cream and butter. Delicious!
My Surf and Turf  (above) is a “steal” with about an eight ounce slab of  luscious ribeye steak and the tail from what looks like a 1.5 lb lobster. Both are perfectly cooked. The accompanying green beans are crisp, beautifully green, and full of taste.
Organic Scottish Salmon, Cedar-Planked
My other friend quickly devoured her  cedar plank roasted Scottish salmon- again perfectly cooked, and graced with a side of creamy light dill sauce.

Have a pause and chat or dance by the dolphins. Then  finish with “the final number” a layered tower of  sweet  Key lime mousse cake, with whipped cream rosettes and a white chocolate swirl.
 This was good, however this Florida- raised guy who has baked quite a few pies wouldn’t mind a tart slice of Key lime pie instead.   

During the evening, the kitchen put out over 100 orders in a short period of time. Michael donned a chef’s coat, and helped, cooking alongside his cooks on the line. Later he helped serve, and bussed tables. He does what it takes to make your evening very, very memorable. Say "hi" as he comes by checking on everyone.  If ever I’d open a restaurant, I’d want him and Chef “Smitty” covering my back as co-partners.

Customers now flock to a revived Cloyde's daily, while other restaurants in summer are empty, even with their half-off coupons.  Cloyde's prices are very, very reasonable-it’s like getting a 30-50% off dish to begin with, and not having to bother to print or cut coupons! What are some favorites on non-supper club nights? The $16 Maryland lump crab cake is crustacean-rich, and happily filler-poor.

Steamed musssels ($13) are the real thing, with Prince Edward Island's stars in a light wine broth.

Cloyde's $17 Tilapia Alexander is one of my favorite seafood dishes-light and flaky with a great bread crumb crust and beurre blanc sauce-this "must have" treat melts in your mouth!
  The cedar plank roasted organic Scottish salmon is $19, blackened Mahi Mahi  is $18, and Fresh Seafood Pasta Primavera is $18. The New York strip steak is $29 for a big 12oz, and $34 for a huge 14oz slab.   Pork Chop Milanese is a favorite at $25. My companion swooned over the picture-perfect oven roasted Angus prime rib, (below). You'll not find this quality for $22 at other steak places.
My beef favorite is the bone in filet mignon. (I started in on it before I could take a photo).
Dessserts include a huge wedge of luscious chocolate fudge mousse cake (it's so rich-I couldn't finish it)
 and the coconut dusted snoball with chocolate syrup, paired with a hot cappuccino.

Cloyde's is the place to go for good ‘ole American steaks and seafood properly cooked at very reasonable prices-prices you've not seen in 10-20 years. The waterfront setting can’t be beat. The inexpensive bonus of a monthly dinner club with options like surf and turf, music and dancing for $30 is simply THE best dining and dancing deal around.  There's no charge for playful dolphins.

What’s the competition? Nearby MiraMare serves traditional Italian food with a quite similar view, Upscale M Waterfont Grille, on the opposite side of the Bay, has very creative dishes.  I've been a regular at each, because I’ve consistently had only delicious meals at each spot. Try 'em, and see what best floats your boat, or  kayak!
Reserve for the next Supper club on Sept 12th, at 261-0622. 4050 Gulf Shore Blvd N.,  Naples, www.cloydes.com


Saturday, July 28, 2012

Ballyorney Irish Pub in Fort Myers with Shannon Yates



Executive Chef Shannon Yates now at the helm of a Fort Myers Irish pub and restaurant? Check it out. He’s a natural, he's Irish, and it’s a win-win for diners and party goers alike.
 Ballyorney Irish Pub opened  May 2011 in  the  “castle” that Jim Dwyer created in 2003 as  Dwyers Irish Pub & Restaurant, a few blocks South of Bell Tower Shops on US 41.  This month (July) Ballyorney launched its new menu, with Chef Shannon’s Bacchus cosmopolitan culinary creations.
 The multistory building/castle, named after an Irish town south of Dublin, houses separate dining and welcoming pub areas on the main floor. Upstairs is the party area with music for a lively younger crowd that starts to comes in after 9 pm.  
  The dining room décor features a broad stone chimney and fireplace and walls bedecked with  authentic Irish bric-a-brac –horse collars, farm implements, an anchor, and old telephones. The lighting is comfortably low and sufficient to read the menu. There's room at the bar, too!
  I went with a lovely redheaded Irish lass. She smiled and her blue eyes brightly sparkled as she appreciated the antiques, then relaxed in the rich Irish pub ambiance.
    Servers proudly sport black shirts atop tartan kilts-only thing missing was a bagpiper on our visit!
 Before Shannon’s arrival, the menu’s traditional Irish dishes alone didn’t attract many folks. Adding Shannon’s global selections brings in a more cosmopolitan crowd; many  are Shannon’s customers from his prior spots- Lush, Bacchus, Cru and Mad Takeout. Yes, suckling pig and shrimp tacos, seafood paella, mussels with chorizo and truffle whipped potatoes are not typical pub grub. Then again, similar assorted fare and especially Indian cuisine have become favorites at Irish and British gastropubs.
Start with a tall, cold Guinness Draft (Draught) for $5, a great price for the classic dark  Irish beer with a rich long lasting head. We admired the compact wine list, and happily chose a glass of 2010 Urban Uco Malbec ($9). The  Honora Merlot ($7) is another delicious wine that paired well with our ensuing choices. There’s Irish, British, Belgian and American beers, ales and ciders to sample. Go for a “half and half”, black & blue, or black and tan-popular combinations in Irish and British pubs.
   The $12 tuna sashimi and tartar (sp), or tuna “two ways,” is a savory perfect opener for tuna lovers.

This tall dish features over $15 of sesame seed sprinkled  tender tuna sashimi slabs piled high over succulent tuna tartare. The delicate tuna’s flavors are enhanced with a light ponzu sauce and diced green onion.

The grilled crispy sliced baguette is a welcome contrast (and spoon) for the tartare. Recommended.
 Roasted beet, radish and quinoa salad ($9) is elevated to a “must have”, when Shannon serves tender sweet red beets and crisp sliced radishes  over quinoa, sprinkled with a sharp blue cheese. The slightly sweet quinoa nicely contrasts  with the arugula’s slightly bitter bite. The warm beets’ lush mouth feel rounds out a brilliantly creative culinary delight. Recommended!

We took a break to savor a cup of sweet curry soup with shrimp ($5 cup, $7 bowl). This is a creamy rich explosion of taste; thick as a chowder or bisque, with a good portion of shrimp. A bit of cayenne heat makes this one that Shannon should sell as a take out treat. Highly recommended.
  The contrasting cup of red pepper and fennel soup ($5) is rich and tasty, however the curry soup has captured our hearts and taste buds.
 
Skirt steak with yucca and green sauce ($9) starts with a high quality sliced steak perched on  French fry sized fingers of South American boiled yucca, topped with onions, a splash of olive oil and a fresh chimichurri sauce that’d fit right in  any Argentinean steak house. 
 Get it rare and enjoy a Latin inspired creative integration of tastes and textures. Recommended.

How can one visit an Irish pub and not try the Shepherd’s pie? Shannon’s version ($15) marries Old World traditional lamb and beef chunks, sliced white onion, broth  and roasted turnip with vitamin- rich kale, topping it with piped mashed potatoes. 
 The crunch of the kale is a clever counterpoint to the nicely spiced meat. Our order (above) came split into two bowls-easier for sharing.

   Save room for dessert! While the former restaurant kept a large slice of Guiness-infused chocolate cake for regulars, and also a bread pudding, Chef Shannon has livened up the dessert offerings with cayenne crème brûlée’s sweet heat topped with a crisply melted brown sugar crust. 
   “Ah, there’s no heat” I thought. Seconds later, it asserted its presence, warming the back of the throat with a welcome heat. ($5.50)  Recommended.
 The coffee ($1.95) is well worth a cup.

   Musical Bonus! Visit on a Tuesday evening at 6:30 pm for authentic traditional Irish music sessions, as acoustic musicians from near and far gather for a nip of Irish whiskey in an informal setting, and play songs that have livened up the Emerald Isle for generations. Join in, participating musicians get 50% off their tab!
    Shannon Yates has invigorated Ballyorney’s offerings with his delicious menu additions. Whether you select Irish classics, or  Shannon’s selections, you’ll be enjoying some of the best cuisine that Fort Myers has to offer-all in a friendly relaxing setting. Plan for a relaxing dinner and enjoy the music, traditional acoustic Irish or contemporary music for a younger crowd upstairs.
Hours:  Mon - Fri 4pm - close,  Sat - Sun 11:30am - close Tues Thursdays music
13851 S. Tamiami Tr, Fort Myers, (239) 628-1444

Friday, July 20, 2012

Maguro Japanese Sushi and Steak House in Naples

Maguro Sushi and Steak House is a welcome restaurant addition for discerning diners from Naples to Fort Myers. My dining party was happily amazed by the relaxing sleek design that would be just as welcomed in Manhattan, San Francisco or Tokyo. It’s an intriguingly well integrated  attractive mix of organic bamboo, round stones, and granite, accented by ribbons of glacier- blue light.
 Handmade Japanese masks on some walls are a simple effective enigmatic decorative motif. Co-owners/brother and sister Denny and Vicky Zhang have brought attractive cutting edge design and delicious food to Naples from Manhattan.
Maguro is next to Scotttrade, at the Northwest corner of US 41 and Wiggins Pass. You won’t see it from the road; drive in the shopping center area- then it's visible. Enter and you’re quickly greeted and escorted to your dining choice; the attractive bar, front tables, the sushi bar, or stroll back to the large yet intimate feeling hibachi table room. I love a hibachi/teppanyaki show, and Chef Calvin certainly gave us a  great  evenings' show of culinary and acrobatic artistry; slicing, tossing and serving food with eruptions of volcano-like flames while our food gave off a savory sizzle.
 Our table of five, ranging in age from pre-teen on up, had only compliments and no complaints about the evening's meal or service.

After sitting down around the rectangular hot table and placing our orders, Jenny, our attentive server, brought bowls of clear soup, with bits of mushroom-a pleasant broth with rich umami flavor. Some entrees came with fresh greens and tomato salad. The slightly tart Ponzu based dressing was ok; perhaps a choice of Asian style dressings with ginger  or lemongrass elements would be welcomed.
The Kari salad ($6) is an enjoyable treat, with crabmeat mixed with cucumber tobiko (crunchy fish egg/caviar), and rice with spicy mayo.
A sprinkle of panko gives a great contrast. The chef has fun creating these dishes for your taste buds.  Recommended.

Beginners can choose sushi and sashimi from a wide variety of colorful tasty rolls to custom made towers.
The $6.25 mini steamed shrimp dumplings, “Shumai” are delicious! Properly steamed and tender with a delicious dipping sauce-it's a  minimally spiced treasure with hints of ginger, mushrooms and a touch of soy sauce. A keeper!
    Be adventuresome and have the ambrosia-like Green River special roll ($13) that has a tender center of mildly spicy tuna wrapped with thin sheets of avocado, accented with spicy mayo and sitting on squiggles of  BBQ-like eel sauce.
 This is luscious, amazingly tender, and a great mix of succulent textures and tastes. Highly recommended!

The deep fried crispy soft shell crab ($10)is also an oceanic delight,
with crisp hot fried crab rolled with crisp greens, topped with barbeque eel, then served atop  a rice roll with both a tempura sauce and a hot chili sauce. Nice!

There’s a goodly variety of sushi, sashimi, and hand rolls-from $5 vegetarian,  to an armada of  “love boats”, designed to satisfy two to four diners. Savor creations with  white tuna, spiced tuna ,salmon, yellowtail, eel, lobster and red snapper.  We and guests at a neighboring table agreed-Maguro serves only truly  fresh seafood.

Crispy duck roll ($10) is a steal of a deal, with a goodly portion of finely shredded Peking duck, sliced avocado, spring vegetables and sesame seeds with a rich, just sweet enough hoisin-type dipping sauce.
It’s crispier than its name, and ideal for a lover of Peking duck. Highly recommended.

A properly cooked Beef negimaki ($9) is infrequently encountered. Many cooks overcook it, or serve it sliced too thickly or sliced with the grain-both big no-no’s.
Maguro’s chef’s version shines with attention to detail, medium rare as ordered. The six mouth sized portions of sliced N Y steak arrive steaming hot, enclosing crisp green onion lightly bound by scallion, anointed with sesame seeds and  teriyaki sauce. Ours quickly disappeared-a recommended savory delight! I recommend dining on this and other steak based savory treats after eating other lighter tasting seafood appetizers.
Savor some of two dozen sake brands, beers, wine or mixed drinks at the blue bar.
After a few cups of hot sake, the hibachi/teppanyaki show began! Chef Calvin had the challenge of cooking separate orders for shrimp, chicken (nugget-sized) and scallops, so all would come out at roughly the same time.

Our eight year old girls’s eyes grew wide as she beheld him deftly tossing then hiding eggs. Knives  flashed and dazzlingly danced in his hands. He wizardly commanded towers of  flame to erupt from conical sliced onion mounds! Her tablemates were no less amazed as he deftly made a brown rice base with admixed bits of egg,  slivered carrots, squash and other vegetables.
Hands-Free Dining-or Eating on the Fly!

The rice was placed on our beautiful dark plates, then topped with each person's sauteed “proteins”. His timing was spot on. The scallops ($24),
 shrimp ($20),

and the chicken ($17) were each cooked to perfection-not always easy when each requires a different preparation time and style. Shrimp and beef is what I'll get next time.

These are quite generous portions for the price, expecially when your hibachi order also comes with a two shrimp appetizer, clear soup, house salad, brown rice and vegetables. We took half of our food home, and yes, it was as tasty the next day.

We enjoyed our dinner and service and would return in a heartbeat, especially for the recommended items and to try some other items. Lunch is served daily. There’s take out or dining in specials- any two rolls for $9.75 with miso soup and salad, or three rolls for $13. Try a lunch bento box, hibachi from the kitchen, sushi or sashimi.  Birthday soon? Come in with your birthday ID and get a free personal cake and photo.   

Maguro offers delicious food, and warm family-friendly attention in a quite attractive setting. It’s a welcome addition to the area, similar, yet different enough from lovely Daruma, and not far from  the elegant Naples’ Charlie Chiang’s Modern Asian Kitchen and Sushi Bar.

Maguro Japanese Sushi and Steak House, Take Out and Dine In, 895 Wiggins Pass Road, #6 (next to Scottrade), 591-0003.