Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Bert's Seafood & Chowder House - A Star is Born on 5th Avenue South!

Bert’s Seafood and Chowder House opened a week ago at the former Naples 5th Avenue South site of Cork’s Steakhouse, with the best fresh Cape Cod-style seafood in Naples. Truluck’s and McCormick & Schmick now face more competition with Bert’s attractively price, top quality seafood. Bert’s has a warm welcoming feel, looking as if it’s been here for years. Generous portions of authentic, delicous preparations are served in a family-friendly setting. I am happy when I can give a strong positive review. You are happy to smile and return, over and over, to a comfortable spot.
.
Bert’s owners Jim Hammar and Tom Shields respectively run the front and back of the house with Chef Michael Geary and friendly efficient staff. Walk in off 5th Avenue South, and take in the 30 foot long attractive teak bar which welcomes you on your left, with three friendly bartenders to serve your favorite drinks and even food at the bar. On the right of the bar are four-tops. At the back is a wine room dining area that seats 12-16 comfortably.
Most glasses of wine are $7, with only a few more than that-compare that to wine prices elsewhere on 5th, with smaller pours as well. Ther's agood selection of bottles, with names like Toasted Head, Kendall Jackson Specila Select, BR Cohn Silver and Frogs Leap. Martinis are $9- vs 12-17 along 5th, and at Mercato. The right side of the building is the main dining room with a wood beamed open ceiling and rich red walls. Perhaps 160 people can be seated inside and out.

The décor is warm, with woods and a rich deep red walls. Numerous black and white large prints decorate the walls, showing nautical Naples around the turn of the century. Somebody cares, and did their homework, even going to the historical society to buy these authentic prints.

Bert’s has that "been here for years" look, with a comfortable warm feel. My photos were taken at 4:30 pm, the place is packed by 7 pm in season. This is a keeper, unlike the Pate’s' Corks, which was later sold to a businessman who then watched it go downhill.

Starters include Flash Fried Calamari ($12), Fried While Belly Clams (10), Steamed Mussels (12), and Seared Manie Lobster Sliders (14).

I flipped over the rich creamy Bert’s Signature Seafood Bisque (cup/bowl - $7/9), one of the richest and best seafood soups I’ve had in a very long time. If you love a lobster bisque, then this will thrill you with it creamy good texture, rich taste, and generous chunks of crabmeat, scallops fish, shrimp and lobster. You’ll briefly hold and savor every luscious mouthful before reaching for the next addictive spoonful. It’ll put a smile on your lips!. A “must have” while in Naples.

Bert’s clam chowder ($6/8) is the real thing, creamy, slightly sweet, and brimming with diced potatoes and a good amount of clam. It’s very good. I do prefer the Seafood Bisque, if I had to choose just one soup to try. Many people offer lobster rolls, however few get it “right”., accordingly to my Maine and Massachusetts friends. Bert’s has the quintessential “true lobster roll”, with chunks of lobster meat overflowing the special roll, for only $23 Others put in gooey filler and use hot dog rolls-that’s not gonna cut it with a New Englander. You can’t find the roll at first on your plate-the abundance of tender lobster meat completely hides the roll! There’s "no" filler to speak of-this is the way it should be! And the roll? It’s the real deal with the crust properly sliced off, buttered and then lightly grilled to crispness. Served with fries or potatoes, it’s THE best lobster roll you’ll have outside of a Cape Cod fisherman’s home. Recommended.

The salad is fresh, not from a typical restaurant’s plastic bag.

I could live forever if I were prescribed a lobster diet at Bert’s. The doctor could not write for a better dish than the Baked “Lazyman’s” Lobster Casserole ($30), with the equivalent of meat from two 1.25 lb lobsters. Lightly buttered, topped with chef Geary’s wonderful lemon butter crumbs, then baked to tenderness, this is a “must have” dish when in Naples. This much lobster would easily cost $50 at Truluck’s. Highly recommended.

The Bert’s Signature Baked Seafood Platter (30) is generous on fresh taste and light great breading. The plump whole belly clams melt in your mouth, unlike the rubbery strips you may have had for years at lesser locations. The cod strips are tender and slightly sweet with oceanic freshness. The medium sized shrimp are cooked just right with that enticing slight ‘crunch.” It’s not easy to get both thick and thin portions of food baked just right-the thicker pieces are just as tender as the smaller items. The baked or fried foods are a “make or break” for a seafood restaurant, and Bert’s healthier baked platter passes with flying colors.

Bert’s Seafood Pasta’s (29) linguine pasta and its delicate creamy sauce is a well chosen counterpoint to the perfectly cooked tender scallops, shrimps and lobster. There’s the meat of two Maine lobster claws, a quintet of good sized shrimp and large succulent scallops It’s such a generous portion that my guest had to take home half, and said the sauce was better the next day. It's that better next-day goodness that also goes for soups. Chef Geary is consistent in his masterful cooking of every dish we’ve sampled.

Baked Scallops are an art form here, tender as "buttah" and oh so tasty! The lemon herb butter crumbs have a light delicate taste that complements the slightly sweet scallops perfectly. This generous platter, with choice of starch and melted butter is only $25.
Bert's is family friendly, with the affordable ($5-7) choice of fish and chips, linguini, chicken tenders or fried shrimp plates for kids.
The Char-grill offers USDA choice open flame grilled filet (6oz/10 oz for $24/ $32), and a big New York Strip Steak, 16 ounces, for just $28. You'd pay over $40 at many steak places around! And, unlike other pricey spots, it includes a choice of fries, baked or mashed potatoes, and a small house or Caesar salad. Why pay $5-12 extra for a side potato or salad at other steakhouses?

Tom Shields (same name as his dad), Layne Perkins, Chef Michael Geary

Who’s the competition? Swan River offers similar New England style cuisine, however they are over four miles away. Mercato’s more upscale McCormick & Schmick’s looks like a high end steakhouse, yet serves nicely priced seafood. Truluck’s, a couple blocks west on 5th Ave S. serves fresh seafood in a more formal dining style with a range of prices. Randy’s is funky and unique. Each has their niche, and I’ve been enjoyed each. I’m not sure where Esquire’s John Mariani finds his “fried catch o’the day” in today’s Naples, elso I'd toss that in the differential of choices. Why, I've not seen it offered in ANY SW Florida spot in over 15 years. Check out Bert’s, you deserve the best in fresh seafood.

826 5th Ave South, Naples, 213-1111 www.bertsnaples.com

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Gulfshore Life At Home Comes Alive at Naples' Gallery du Soleil


The premier issue of the Gulfshore Life At Home supplement issue is hot off the press, paired with Gulfshore Life Magazine's January issue. The 132 page supplement focuses on design, architecture and inspiration. Yes, even though it's not about food, I can't put it down! It's gutsy to come out with a new restaurant, magazine, or even a new 132 page supplement these days. Savor the articles, and get to appreciate this enriching addition to the Gulfcoast scene. Readers are already asking Publisher Christopher Schulz and Associate Publisher Diane Loveless, "So when's the next issue coming out?"
I like the pages' matte finish. The articles are well written, accompanied by stunning photography. The photos of the Bali inspired "Island Retreat" home are seductive -you could move right in, and savor the evening breezes on the porch. The Easy Being Green article is educational and inspiring, with its ecofriendly home’s use of stone and woods inside, and outside xeriscaping. I enjoy reading/seeing Elizabeth Kellar and Ed Chappell's views on Harry Weese's landmark Zaiser home, that quite a few people have seen by boat. It's even more stunning inside, with its nautical teak and brass accents.

The At Home launch party was held at Naples' Gallery du Soleil on Broad, just a few doors east of Third Street. The gallery was filled with artists, collectors and quite a cross section of SW Florida’s arts community.

Gallery du Soleil
I met architect Andrea Clark Brown and painter, sculptor and artist John Carroll Long. The couple enjoys SCUBA (Yes!) and shares many eclectic interests. Afterwards, I read Kelly Merritt's article on their home’s artistic collaboration, highlighted by Nancy DeNike's natural light photography. I found myself smiling at the full page photo of Long’s string wrapped stone heart, in the Break Out panel. It seems like a sentient animal’s head as it stands out, totem-like, from it’s colorful crazy quilt-like background.

John Carroll Long and Andrea Clark Brown
Photographer Nancy DeNike
Gallery du Soleil's beautiful galleries and art is a fitting setting for the artistic collaboration that is Gulfshorel Life At Home. Ave Maria’s sculptor Márton Váró hs almost a dozen home-sized white marble sculptures in one room. His Ave Maria Annunciation sculpture will be finished next year. It’s easy for me to pick out which gallery artists' work that's right for me. Here, my favorite artist is Tang Wei Min, for his wistfully beautiful paintings of traditionally garbed Tibetan women.Local Celebs
The Gallery is Bigger Than a Mouse House
The Blu Sushi Staff and Guests
The Patio Scene
Grace's Mini Cupcakes
Grace's Cupcakes Pass the Test!
Pink Flower by Michael Roco
Gallery du Soleil, 393 Broad Avenue South, Naples, 417-3450

Monday, January 11, 2010

High Spirits Comes to Naples


Hight Spirits Cast and Staff Georgia Engel (Madame Arcati) and James DePaiva (Charles), are two of the stars of this Naples TheaterZone production of "High Spirits", based on "Blithe Spirit" by Noel Coward. Onstage at Community School of Naples, it's gotten great reviews. I'll be there, and post more photos (sans flash) later, too! Mark Danni, Ellen Elleman, Karen Molnar and several dozen other TheaterZone staff, board members and patrons have brought first rate theater to Naples, and Naples audiences support it. This, Collier County's only professional Equity Regional Theater had its first season in 2006, and delighted Naples Daily News critic Maxine Ginsberg- she's knows whereof she speaks.

While you can best experience the production by seeing it, Googling the plot will whet your appetite for the play. I was at Chrissy's/Bianchi's at Courthouse Shadows, 3340 Tamiami Trail East, as Chrissy and Fadi sponsored this fund raising event, sharing their great food and warm hospitality. This was the public's opportunity to meet the stars outside of the performance. What a good group of people to be with! Georgia Engel was nominated for three Emmy Awards for her former roles as Pat McDougal in Everybody Love Norman; old timers remember her as Georgette Franklin in The Mary Tyler Moore Show. James De Paiva starred on One Life to Live as Max Holden. Each has a list of credits as long as your arm! Other cast members include Susan Hartley (Ruth), Karen Molnar Elvira/choreographer), Mary Benepe-Sytsma (Edith), David Goguen (Dr. Bradman) and Karel Wright (Mrs. Bradman).

.
Karen Molnar and Mark Danni
Susan Hartley, Kathleen Kolacz, Mary Benepe-Sytsma, Jamie Eckhold
George Hawn, Georgia Engel, Gibson Hawn and Helen Hawn
Ray and Joyce LeCatta (Italian American Club) and Ellen Elleman
Julie Cerach, David GoguenEllen, Mike, Julia, and Melissa Elleman and Georgia Engel

Jamie Eckhold, Karel Wright






Get your tickets, and come on down!

Performances: January 7-9 at 8:00, January 9 & 10 at 2:00, January 13-16 at 8:00 & January 17 at 2:00. Order Tickets On Line. http://www.theatrezone-florida.com/ 1-888-966-3352

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Naples' KAW Gallery Opens at Moon Over Hibiscus

Naples Hibiscus Center with Robert Hayman sponsored an enjoyable evening of art,. Naples artists turned up the heat at this latest Moon over Hibiscus-A Melting Pot of Art! Painters, as scultptors, musicians, dancers, photographers, stylists and video artists kept hundreds of art lovers visiting over 30 artists from 6 pm to 10 pm.
Peformance art is hard to describe; when it’s done well, and the audience gets right next to , and talks with very talented artists, it’s an addictive experience. I’m hooked!

KAW Art Gallery, which features local artists, had its grand opening. The brainstorm of artists/co-owners Peter Gottschalk, Adriana Villalobos and Charles Goings,

Peter Gottschalk, Charles "Chuck' Goings in front of Chuck's Painting
it has 5,000 square feet of art. Charles Goings is one of the most talented and creative artists I've met, equally talented crafting beautiful furniture from magnificent woods, painting varied subjects in different media, and creating beautiful jewelry from natural sources. Some of his more surrealistic paintings feature a white flower, often a lily, sometimes a desert orchid-now you known one of his motifs. Peter works in a “Dr Seuss-ish” style with oils, and is known to the community for LIVEART productions.


Peter says that KAW gallery currently features a dozen artists “all local, absolutely no imports”, unlilke many galleries in the area, “and every month we will rotate in fresh artists.” This current group of artists includes abstract and natural artists. Echo Chernik, who features dynamic Art Nouveau paintings of dreamy, sensual women was chosen as an illustrator for Celestial Seasonings tea. Her feline nude with gas mask and compelling eyeswas painted 15 years ago-ask for the story on it! Juan Diaz is a very talented ceramicist and painter, coming from a family of artists. Vincent Plzak creates a fiery collection of silver figures on a gold and black background.. Monica V. has a retablo style Madonna and Child. Designer Steve Baffa, Frank Nappo and Michael D’Amico are other artists to see.

Stone sculptor Dixie Whatley carves heavy marble to look as light as sea foam or dancing flames . It’s noisy and dusty, so she works in a commercial stone site. It’s not easy-don’t make a big boo-boo, as there’s no Bondo to repair marble! She’s sold four beautiful pieces to rocker Eric Clapton, and her art graces quite a few homes across the USA. She actually started out in TV, interviewing celebrities like David Bowie and Mick Jagger, and while she never met Eric Clapton, he’s one of her collectors. Her father was a rock collector, however she didn’t think of working in stone until she ordered hammers and chisels off the internet, and was soon hooked! After taking just a few whacks on stone ten years ago, her husband said “I think you better do this outside.” Now she makes quite big pieces as well as wearable sculpture.. She says, “It’s like finding my muse-I love it.” “ I like making stone look very light”. She’s succeeded- a viewer asked her “how do you bend the stone?” One young lady had attractive piercings, and a beautiful colored tattoo. I asked who did it, and she brought me to see Matt “Mully “ Mayhern of Naples' Body Branding Tattoo demonstrate his beautiful detailed three dimensional art.

Youthful musicians of the band, "Hey Dakota", played to a standing audience.Zazou featured beautiful home accessories, and Naples' Al Fialkovich of Decanted Wine offered Prosecco and a wonderful unoaked Chardonnay. It's one of my favorite wine shops.
Lunch Bucket offered gyros and Middle Eastern foods downstairs, and The Melting Pot had hot fondues upstairs, to take the chill off the cool, drizzly night. I felt bad for the dancers with fiery torches, bravely performing in the rain.There were about 30 artists in a separate gallery, with an appreciative audience watching their creative talents, and buying art.
There were several musicians in KAW; young and old danced to their beat.
Robert Heyman
Art Lovers
Artists
The Hibiscus Center, and KAW Gallery are at 2850 U.S. 41 North, Naples, KAWgallery.com

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Home Thai Sushi Bar Bonita Springs

The best Thai and sushi can be found at home –Home Thai Sushi Bar, that is!
Home Thai Sushi Bar opened two months ago, and is doing well. Centrally located in Bonita Springs on the north side of Bonita Beach Road, a few blocks west of US 41 at the former site of Alessio's Trevi, it already has it share of regulars at the booths and at the sushi bar.
The setting is attractively simple, with light wood floors, off-white walls, and lighting from dropped red lights. Wooden chairs are comfortable, and tables are set with white tablecloths and black napkins. While I and my guests sat at a booth, other regulars preferred to sit at the eight sushi bar chairs, perched to see the chefs artistically prepare a variety of attractive dishes.The big 16 page menu is well organized, offering a broad variety of authentic Thai and Japanese dishes. During the evening, diners got to meet Owners Barry Schrayer, (chef) Mee and Goi (“Pinky”) Wichitsakulrat. as they made the rounds of tables, introducing themselves.

We picked a mix of Thai and Japanese dishes, and drank Chang beers.

The Thai Fresh Roll (9) has fresh Romaine lettuce, cucumber, sweet egg omelet, and imitation crab wrapped in moistened rice paper. It’s served with Thai Fresh Roll Sauce, with an earthy-sweet touch of tamarind, soy sauce, and perhaps mirin and sugar. This is a very light, fresh and tasty appetizer. The dipping sauce has a wonderful blend of flavors to complement the delicate rolls. We save the sauce to go with other dishes.
Tuna tataki (11) is beautifully served on a freeform glass dish, with 3 mm thin sections of lightly seared tender very good quality tuna arranged in delicate spirals, served with a light citrus and soy Ponzu sauce, scallions and sesame seeds. The delicate tataki medallions are wrapped around hair-thin slivers of carrots and daikon radish. In the center is a lovely rosebud of tuna. Nice.

The Sushi Mori Combo (19) is a California roll and nine pieces of sushi, with sushi glass with decoration coming out of it


The Fire Dragon Roll (14,50) is a large sushi platter, with long rolls composed of shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and scallion, topped with formed tuna, and dusted with crisp tempura flakes for contrasting texture, attractive appearance and fresh taste. The roll’s savory ingredients' flavors are well balanced with the mildly spicy tuna covering and flakes. We looked at the plate carefully, and noticed the carrot carved into a swan, the artfully carved orange, and even the pattern on the wasabi! Attractive squiggles of carrot and daikon root complete the attractive presentation. This is a highly recommended keeper!
The surprise with the Fire Dragon is the Tuna Rock served with it in a martini type glass. This is a tuna mixed with spicy mayonnaise, scallions slivered bell pepper and masago (caviar) The tuna is wonderfully cooked, and the sculpture-like presentation is quite pretty. (All plates that went by during the evening are attractive).
.
“Somebody sure knows what they are doing, and takes pride in every thing they do,” said a lady from the sushi bar, who walked 30 feet to admire this creation, then returned to her seat. We sent over two pieces of Dragon Roll so she and her partner could have tastes. A few minutes later, she came by with two pieces of her Christmas Roll (13), with a quartet of shrimp cucumber, cream cheese and avocado, wrapped first with nori and then masago caviar, topped with finely sliced surimi , and a swirl of mayonnaise. “Tis the season to be jolly and sharing!” Throughout the evening, people at other tables got up to look at the attractive creations on other neighbors’ tables, and find out what the names were. Where else are customers that curious and just plain friendly?
One customer raved over his red curry shrimp (17), and his partner flipped for their Fire Dragon Roll He let on that they are writing a cookbook with a great title, and some catchy ways to make the recipes more fun-you meet everyone dining out!

Tropical Fried Rice (20) is portion large enough for two, more than filling a scooped out half pineapple with ample rice, shrimp, decoratively sliced tender squid, chicken, pineapple chunks, red bell pepper, cashews, raisins, onions, scallion, carrot, cilantro and egg. The Works! All is harmoniously matched, and each ingredient can be individually tasted and appreciated.

Duck Basil Sauce, one of the “Home” specialties (21), has a good amount of lightly fried, crisp, almost translucent Thai Basil leaves as a topping, and also interspersed between tender boneless portions of a half duck. The skin is crisp. The sauce is amazing, a marriage of bell pepper, onions and scallions in a wonderful chili garlic sauce. We polished off most if this while it was still hot! This is the most filling, savory dish of all that we tried. Highly recommended as our favorite!. Others said the jumbo garlic shrimp is their favorite-either way, it’s said to be hard to choose between the two!

SashimiWith 16 pages of Japanese and Thai offering and artist-chefs, it was no wonder that people got up to see and learn what the others were having.

A Combo Plate
Owners Barry, Mee and Goi came by to the tables during the evening, and our neighbors said they only had compliments to give.

We’re going back to Home Thai Sushi Bar for more. This is an attractive setting with great service and top quality in Thai and Sushi. Who’s the competition? The nearest similar Asian spot is Bonita Springs’ David Wong’s Pan Asian, featuring cuisines from across Asia. Naples’ Sushi Thai is miles away. All three are quite good.

3300 Bonita Beach Rd., Suite 101 Bonita Springs, 948-4663, homethaisushibar.com/

Monday, December 14, 2009

Istanbul Kebab House, Gyros and Kebabs recently opened at Naples' Coastland Mall’s Food Court. While Greece and Turkey share some similar dishes, there’s a difference in spicing that’s well worth exploring.

Owner/Chef D. Deniz Suuctugu hails from Istanbul and also trained in Cleveland Ohio, so he know European and Midwesterners’ tastes. He has 9 years of restaurant experience before opening Istanbul at the Food Court. He says” I realized there wasn't much good European or Turkish kebabs, gyros and other such foods here, so I wanted to bring the great tastes to Naples.” Looking at the line of people waiting to order behind me, I asked what will be his next step. He said, “ In the future, I look forward to also opening a restaurant with private seating.”

The prices are right for an inexpensive, filling and authentically good meal. The colorful display easily shows the various offerings.
Appetizers include falafel ($5), cheese rolls (4) (below), and hummus (4). The Greek, Shepherd and Mediterranean salads range from $5 to 6.50.

Main plates are only $6.50-7.50. The chicken shish kebab, chicken gyros and the meat ball plate are $6.50. The beef shish kebab and beef gyros are $7.50 (below), and come with a salad, and a choice of rice or French fries.
The gyros is cooked upright, on a rotating skewer.
Then the luscious outer edges are individually sliced when ordered.
There are various combos of gyros, shish kebabs and kebabs that come with fries and a large Coca-Cola- a very good deal for only $6.50.
I enjoyed the mixed platter ($8) (below)- The single long grilled kebab is formed with ground beef, peppers and onions, Shish kebab has hunks grilled meat on a skewer, and the gyro is marinated with onions, peppers, seasoning. the meats are served on a bed of rice, with a side cooling cup of tzatziki sauce (Greek style yogurt and cucumbers with lemon juice and dill), and green salad. The slivered Carrot salad has a Greek dressing (Balsamic vinaigrette, feta cheese and ground peppers). The sliced onions (hidden in the above photo) are topped with a red sauce (red peppers, and extra virgin olive oil).

The filling sampling platter is a great introduction to six items, with the kebab and shish kabab on wooden skewers, both nicely, lightly charred, tender and served hot. The long kebab is juicier and spicier than the shish kebab and gyros. The kebab is the ticket if you like things a touch spicier, with its fresh red peppers, chopped onions and Turkish spices. It tastes like a mildly spiced juicy lamb and beef burger. The gyros has a slight spicing difference from Greek recipes. The shish kebabs are enhanced wiht a touch of a surface char, tender and nicely marinated. The side of onions is raw and bold with their marinade. Carrots are fresh cut, and not overwhelmed by their vinaigrette.

What’s the competition? Clearly other vendor within 200 feet, such as McDonalds, Taco Bell, Subway and Sbarro’s. Take your meal home, or have a seat in the central area of the Food Court, and watch the colorful shoppers go by.
Istanbul's cuisine is a tasty new niche at the Food Court. Already, the repeat customers speak well for Istanbul’s success. The Falafel Grill has similar dishes with an Egyptian rather than a Turkish accent, a mom and pop atmosphere, and it’s a few miles away on Pine Ridge.

Istanbul Kebab House, 1876 Tamiami Trail North, 263-1862.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Nirvana Fusion- Good Food in a Lovely Setting in Fort Myers

A new Indian restaurant in Fort Myers! My Indian food lovers and cooks said “Pack the car, we’re gonna give their Rogan Josh and Kulfi a try!”

Nirvana Fusion opened in October at the former site of Metropolitan and Black Hawk on College Parkway.We arrived at 6 pm, and by 7:30 nearly all seats were filled. There’s actually 4 separate parts to this long, large complex-we were in the elegantly simple dining room at the south end, entered via by the pointed awning. The dining room has a display of wines and beers on the left, and the two-level dining room is on the right. It is is relaxing, with attractive chairs and tables, and no Indian tchotckes or gods peering down. The indoor greenery is nice, and the lighting is fine for romantics or friends. Low volume music is calming. Owner James Rajiah had his thinking cap on in designing this from the elegant menu to the simple décor and harmonious use of lighting and music. Open only a few months, it’s succeeded on both accounts.
We were promptly seated by our red jacketed server, and chatted with her. A few minutes later, she seemed as if she didn’t remember us. We did a double take, and she solved our puzzlement-because the red jacketed server is/are twins, Louisa and Dora, here with the sous chef! An Indian meal’s spices demands an Indian beer, so we had Singha and Taj Mahals.

A wine rep offered tastes of two Indian wines. We sampled the Rajastan Sula Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc and the Chenin Blanc. The former was ok, the Chenin Blanc was quite nice, a little fruity, sweeter, and a touch crisp-nice-I’d order it to go with appetizers.

The Naan Bread Basket ($6) has several good sized pieces of what looked like pita bread, and a nice dip. Naan is usually served with some slightly charred spots; this had some browning and was ok for pita bread, but not authentic naan. It’s clearly not made in a traditional Tandoor oven, as it lacks thick and thin areas, scorched marks, and the characteristic texture and taste are just not there. There’s not much taste difference between the plain, garlic and onion naans-I’d recommend another appetizer till a tandoor is purchased.

The Nirvana Sampler (9) has naan bread, tandoori chicken, vegetable samosas, and vegetable and chicken pakoras served with three chutneys. I liked the eggplant, the other items are nicely fried, and I left the naan behind. Overall, a good introduction to the cuisine.

My Butter Chicken ($12) is just that-tender chunks of breast meat simmered in a moderately (for Americans) spicy blend of tomatoes, garam masala, onions, garlic, chilies and spices. I poured it over my rice, there was not a separate plate for this.This was my favorite of the evening. Recommended.

The Rogan Josh ($12) was requested to be spicy hot, and it arrived right on target. The sauce was rich and nicely blended. The lamb was overcooked, and there could have been a couple more pieces to be more pleasing. The spice blend is spot on- a very good test of a cook's competency to balance and blend. We commented, and trust this will be improved in the future. The prices are right for the quality and quantity.

Vegetarian Navarathan Khorma (7) is different in that it has the crunch of green bell peppers and other seasonal vegetables. It’s spicing mixture is completely different from the other three dishes we ordered. There are six vegetarian dishes, and quite a few more could be made upon request. I’d try the Vegetable Biryani (11) next time, or the Aloo Gobi (7).

The Masaman Chicken Curry (12) was my second favorite with authentic Thai creamy peanut sauce.

For dessert, while they ran out of kulchi, the typical Indian ice cream, so we tried regular ice cream with laddu, a tasty rich sweet mix of ghee, flour, and sugar syrup, and were very happy. Highly recommended.

There were glitches I’d expect in the first few months, and Dora handled each efficiently. That’s what I look for-an experienced, competent staff knows how to make any meal a good one for the customer.
One table had a birthday party; they they were very pleased with the food and service.
Indian food in India, and parts of London or NYC for that matter, is traditionally served “hotter” than by American standards, and nearly all restaurants in the USA, outside of Indian enclaves, “spice it down” for the American palate. You can spice it to any level desired. The couple at the next table, ordered their food “not spicy.” One ordered the very same Butter Chicken that I enjoyed. At the end, the man made a big deal about how it was overspiced and unbearably salty, emphatically stating they could not eat it at all, so he wanted it written off the bill. He added “We won’t be coming back.” Not a problem-Dora nicely handled it. Curious, after they left, I lifted the lids on their food –they had picked out all the chicken, and consumed well over half the sauce! Oh how they must have suffered; with every tasty, free spoonful! The couple’s scant remaining food indicated they did not go away hungry, or terribly dissatisfied. Takes all kinds...

Owner James later said that the chef cooks with a touch of the Chennai / Madras style, not the more common Gujurati, Kashmiri, or the less commonly found spicy Keralan style.
A good test of an Indian restaurant is how many Indians come, as most cook at home. One Indian diner said “He did a quite fair job, and should get credit.”

Another table of 5 Indians, clearly first timers here, indicated they were pleased with their food. Canvassing two tables of diners knowlegeable about Indian food in the States, one table felt this is good, and the best Indian restaurant of the four in SW Florida. The other table found some dishes to be hits, and others misses, and still they'd return. Two knowledgeable tables of diners, two different opinions. That polarization on the same night, with the same chef is not that uncommon with Indian food, given the different versions of “Indian” people are used to, and their own preferences. The food is much better than Bonita Springs’ Passage to India, and the setting and food are nicer than India Palace. After dinner, we walked around the complex. There was very good live music outdoors in a lovely lush landscaped setting.I’d come back for drinks and appetizers here anytime! There’s a large bar with friendly bartenders-one of the nicest bars in town. At the end of the complex is an area suitable for corporate or family banquets.

There are kinks to be worked out, as I’ve heard service can be extremely slow on some nights. I’ll be back for the $10 lunch buffet-people rave about the quantity, variety and quality. Thankfully, I really didn’t find any “fusion” at Nirvana Fusion, as the Indian and the Thai dishes are kept authentic, and not blended. I know a nicely priced, good Indian spot when I taste it.

.
One of the twins with Owner James Rajiah.277-9101. 9101 College Parkway, Fort Myers,Fl http://www.nirvanafusion.com/

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Downtown Naples Fall World Wine Tour 2009

.
McCabe's Irish Pub offers Conviviality and Chicken Cordon Bleu
Naples revelers strolled up and down 5th Avenue South on November 19th, driving or taking the Marino Group's trolley to nearby restaurants, sampling at least 2 wines along with each restaurant's food. It had a haphazard 5:30 p.m. start, as a few places were set to start at 6 pm, not 5:30! Not a problem; we just went to the next spot. By the 9:30 p.m. close, people were more than full!

Curiously, many of the wines offered were supplied by a separate vendor, so if you liked a particular wine, it was not carried by that restaurant! Several restaurants offered the very same mediocre wine. After sampling food and at least a red and a white wine at each of over a dozen spots-who cared!
We picked up our $40 wristbands and wine glasses, and started with mini chicken cordon bleu and an empanada-like triangle at McCabe's Irish Pub, enjoying Jerry Pellegrino's live guitar music.
Truluck's, once known as "the" seafood spot on 5th Ave., served fried breaded chicken fingers, fried rice and crab balls 'n dips. I enjoyed them-I do prefer Popeye's over Truluck's chicken. One miffed customer groused, "Truluck's chef must have gotten a steal on this "chicken of the sea" and a big bag of rice, or else they're going belly-up." Smart restaurants offer a nice tasting, small portion of mid priced cuisine. This attracts new customers, and keeps costs down. I'll admit Truluck's offerings were nicer at previous Wine Tours, when they served signature seafood, not fried chicken fingers. Look out KFC!

The Jolly Cricket did a yeoman's job, offering a beautiful cheese and fresh fruit platter, and delicious Scotch eggs-a hardboiled egg encased in sausage, breaded, and fried to perfection. Let the newcomer show up the tired old guard! The jazz pianist made us want to return!
Vergina's served a delicous meat ball. Cafe Lurcat's Chef Andrew Wicklander offred only signature sugar donuts to go with the wines. Maybe next year he will serve bagels with red wine, and French fries with white wine. What was he thinking (or drinking?)
Bella Maria offered tasty Chilean-style croquettes and Chilean wines. Ristorante D'Angeli's owner, Angelina, personally poured Italian wines, as the violinist serenaded guests. That's al fresco dining in style! She offered various pastas, gnocchi, bruschetta and nice canapes. The Restaurant of the Angels does it right. Fifth Avenue Coffee scored big with savory panini's-we'll be back!
People descended on Roy's tasty mini molten chocolate desserts. They have a new chef; Chef Javier Vasquez is gone.
Olio's Executive Chef Scott Sopher's generous offerings were highly rated by guests. He served bacon-wrapped scallops with a delicous sauce, several flatbreads, mini-eggrolls and mini quiches.
Bayfont Inn's Bambu Tropical Grill had Swedish meatballs, cheeses, dips and fresh fruit. Other participants include Zizi at Bellasera, Little Italy, Bice, Pinchers Crab and Riverwalk. The Marino Group kindly provided the shuttle bus all evening, and Mercedes-Benz of Naples also assisted.

People were happy. Tickets sell out every year. The last busload at Olio's liked the food so much that they stayed for drinks and dinner. I polled about 15 people towards the end of the evening. From just the food samples' quality, people said they'd definitely return to Olio's, Jolly Cricket, Ristorante D'Angeli, Roy's and Bella Maria for a regular lunch or dinner. The lesser quality food at some other places did turn off potential customers. The sponsor-supplied mediocre wines were disappointing at an alleged "Wine Tour", especially as the bottles were at multiple restaurants. Some restauranteurs wisely substituted better quality wines, lest customers associate them with cheap quality wine.
Customers don't appreciate paying $40 for an alleged "wine tour," then served $3 wine bottles. Fifth Avenue sponsors, put your better foot forward at the next "World Wine Tour." This event is a great opportunity for restaurants to offer customers better food samples than Lurcat's silly donuts and Truluck's fried chicken. Be shortsighted and cheap and turn people off, or utilize a unique opportunity to atract new customers, who pay $40 for decent food and wine.
.
Bewildered Fifth Avenue merchants wonder why savvy customers have left $15 hamburgers, Lurcat's donuts and wine pairing, and $400 shoes behind, and now dine at Mercato and other spots.
One reaps what one sows.

Monday, November 16, 2009

V & J Bistro, A Fort Myers Beach Delight

I’m returning to Fort Myers Beach’s V & J Bistro, for a taste of the award winning crème brûlée, and try more of chef and co-owner James Buis’ creations. One visit is not enough! V & J is named for Rachael’s late mother Vera, and James’ late stepfather John-lovers of all things culinary.

It’s easy to miss, shoehorned in the tiny shopping center on the Bay side of Estero Blvd. Find the Wachovia bank at the 2800 block, go behind, and you’re there. Make reservations, as 26 seats can fill up fast. It’s a bright, clean setting with paintings of Sanibel, attractive prints of silverware, and metal artwork on the tan walls. The little restaurant has light tan square floor tile and tables are covered with white table cloths. Simplicity. Dress is casual on Fort Myers Beach. As soon as I’m on the island, overlooking miles of beaches and condos, sunburned visitors, beach shops and mom and pop places, I know I’m on a Florida vacation!

The Lunch menu offers Baby Back Fibs & Fries ($7), Fish n Chips (7), Grouper Sandwich n Fries (8), Grilled John Dog (4), Vera’s Beef Enchilada’s (6), and Chicken Tenders n Fries (6). Beer is $2.50 for Bud, Bud light, Coors etc., and the house wine is an inviting $4/glass-we’ll drink to thes prices!

You can’t beat V & J’s prices for the quality and portion size. We came for dinner, served from 4-9 pm. Have a seat, and fresh, warm bread and butter appears, followed by your beverage. There are eighteen wines, ranging from $4 to $7 by the glass, and $14 to 29 by the bottle-decent, and very easy on the wallet. Vintners are the house Oak Creek, followed by Sutter Home, Ecco Domani, Dominican Oaks and Francis Coppola (cab, merlot and chardonnay). The Coppola Russo, a mix of Cabernet, Syrah and Zin, is very good at $29. Some house wine bottles were offered for a special of $12. Next time!

The Phyllo Wrapped Shrimp (7) features four freshly deep fried lightly phyllo wrapped medium sized shrimp, hot and tender, with a light citrus aioli, combing fresh orange, and lime juices. A good start!I like the Portobello & Goat Cheese Strudel (7), with a generous portion of ‘shrooms and cheese served in a thin roll of strudel dough. The attractively plated, ample portion is sliced in half for finger food or fork. Served hot, it’s very good taste combination and very good value. These creative appetizers are not the usual, um, tourist fare served on Fort Myers Beach!

The Seafood Crêpe (7) is ok, containing minimally spiced salmon, another fish, and shrimp in a limp, yet otherwise nicely made crêpe. It is boring on the plate, and not as tasty as the other appetizers. This dish needs some tweaking. I’m game to try it on a second visit.

I saw other diners’ Shrimp cocktail (7), Bruschetta (6), and Spring Rolls (6). These looked good, with very good prices.

Our friendly efficient server, covering 20 guests, is Rachael Johnston, She’s the restaurant’s co-owner, with partner James Buis. Over the years, he’s been Executive Chef at Fort Lauderdale’s Ocean View and at Johnny’s Cocktails, and more recently Naples’ Handsome Harry’s. He knows how to deliver quality food, at very good prices.

Chef James Buis and Rachael Johnston The Lamb Shank is perfectly tender, a good portion with a rich cherry demi-glace, served with mashed potatoes, squash, carrots and baby bok choy, At $13, this is half the price in many Naples restaurants, and no less of a filling portion. Recommended. The Miso Sea Bass (17) is properly cooked and tender, with a fresh fruit salsa, on a bed of nicely cooked and scented jasmine rice. Another keeper!

My favorite is the Pecan Encrusted Chicken, nicely spiced, and stuffed with bleu cheese and bacon, with a crisp crushed pecan crust, accompanied by squash and carrots. Chicken au jus is in the silver server. Two thumbs up for the Porcini Mushroom Encrusted Veal Tenderloin, with demi-glace and mashed potatoes (15). It comes cooked as ordered, attractively presented. My neighbor had the 8 Oz Filet Mignon, wrapped in bacon for $20, and he said it was as good as at any finer steakhouse.

The Cornish Hen with demi glaze (13) was sold out. Next time, perhaps the sautéed Red Snapper, (15), Macadamia encrusted Grouper (15), or BBQ ribs ((8-half, 14 whole rack)

Many restaurant offer coupons on the internet, and I got their $25 coupon for $10. It took a while to register. This one required at least $35 to be spent, alcohol excluded, with one coupon per table, and no split checks. We qualified, and $15 off is $15 saved (we just spent it on more food!). Rachel is happy with the coupon concept as it is profitable; tonight it brought in 4 tables that otherwise wouldn’t have come. When the quality is this good, people return in season, coupon or no coupon.

I have one “complaint”-they ran out of the signature Orange-Grand Marnier Crème Brûlée. I did have one before, and it is one of the best- light and flavorful. James won a coveted 2009 People’s Overall Choice for this at the 2009 Taste of the Beach -Best Dessert category! The Carrot Cake is delicious, and enough for two or three to share.I didn’t try the Key Lime Pie. All desserts are $3.50, (that’s no typo) a great price for the quality.

V & J Bistro is a welcome addition to Fort Myers Beach, thankfully several steps above the nearby tired tourist food, and their prices are terrific. This Mom and Pop’s upscale cuisine is the “just reward” for savvy, cost-conscious diners who seek out, and appreciate finer quality dining in a casual setting.

2801 Estero Blvd, Fort Myers Beach, 463-1428, vandjbistro.com

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

AZN Brings Colorful Tasty Asian Cuisines to Naples' Mercato

“I go there for the beautiful décor and the bold food. It’s unlike any other Asian spot we’ve tried,” one woman explained, “prices are good, and we love the Mercato location.” I second that, with my second AZN visit. Comparing the prior to the current revamped menu, AZN has enhanced their very good selections, adding bold new dishes, creative drinks, and a thoughtful variety of nicely priced wines.

Each visit highlighted attentive service, and very good quality foods properly cooked and seasoned. Proprietors Raymond and Anna Hsu have three different style Asian restaurants in Atlanta-this is their first venture away. AZN would franchise well. One guest preferred this over PF Chang’s, saying "AZN is far tastier, less noisy and crowded.”

The décor is dramatically attractive, innovative and warm, with subdued night time lighting. It's strikingly exotic, asymmetric in shapes textures and hues. The designer skillfully unites the melange of disparate angles, curves and colors. The walls are autumnal golds and yellows; booths sport rich reds, and central tables and chairs are brown. Rounded white sail cloths uniquely drape part of the high black ceiling. The front windows widely open, letting in fresh air. The bar area (below) fills fast. AZN attracts a mixed age weekday crowd, and a younger later-night weekend set. We’re not in Kansas anymore. Eye opening AZN dismisses dated “Chinese” foods and tacky décor.

Server Diana has a 1000 watt personality and down to earth charm. Scott is attentive and friendly. Both know the menu’s dishes and made excellent suggestions after hearing my guests’ preferences. We’ll return to their tables! This review combines both dining experiences.

We started with the beautiful appetizer, Ahi Poke Hawaiian, ($9) cupped in a sensual wrap of red cabbage, with diced fresh raw tuna, pineapple and avocado, marinated in ponzu sauce, topped with seaweed salad and tobiko. Wonderful.

The AZN Crab Cake ($12) is a good sized, lightly pan seared cake with thankfully little filler around the tender, fresh shredded lump crab meat. It’s served over a Kimchi rich butter sauce. (Opened below.)There’s no Old Bay spice or other additions to detract from the delicate crab’s sweet taste.

The Beer Battered Seabass (13) has tender mouth sized bites, minimally battered, seasoned with Asian spices and accented with a rich, sweet and mildly spicy aioli sauce. “People who don’t usually eat fish” would like these savory bites.
This wonderfully light treat will put Mrs. Paul’s Frozen Fish instantly out of business.

Wicked Mussels (10) are aptly named. These naughty boys are not for weenies. If you relish an “in your face” bold taste, then step right up! The two dozen mussels’ sauce, redolent of ocean brine, is chili-spiced hot enough to be served at street stands across Asia. There’s slices of onion and over 3 grams of salt, but who’s counting. I wish there was another wedge of the crisp triangular buttered toast to soak up more broth. They’d probably bring more toast or bread, if asked. You’ll smile when you see what is done with the bonito flakes-it’s very clever!

Two sushi chefs keep busy with dozens of specialty and traditional rolls. The Firecracker (12) is aptly named, with spicy hot tuna and tempura flake, topped with crabstick, avocado, Sriracha mayo and jalapeno!Next time we’ll try the Hunan Hot and Sour Soup (5) and the AZN House Salad or the Yuzu Caesar (7). The Vietnamese Spring Rolls (6) went by, and they look good!

AZN’s good selection of nicely priced wines by the glass ranges from $6-13. Bottles start at $26, with a dozen under $35. At the higher end are Cakebread’s Chardonnay (80), BR Cohn Silver Cab (52), and a Veuve Cliquot Yellow label split for $40. The variety includes ones from California, Oregon, Chile and France.You’ll pay quite a bit more elsewhere in town! Mixed drinks are creative-the Cherry Saketini or Cucumber Cooler creations are favorites.

The Chilean Sea Bass ($26) is a perfectly cooked portion, miso and sake marinated, then grilled so the edges are crisp. Topped with a sweet glaze, it’s lusciously tender and moist. Chinese long beans and steamed white rice accompany-it’s a good portion.
Thai Basil Salmon (19) offers a good sized tender salmon portion with a cedar plank scent. It’s accented with a Thai basil butter and red curry vinaigrette topping.

What to try on a next visit? The new Black and Blue Tuna (26) gets solid reviews, with red raw tuna seaweed and sesame encrusted, served with a dramatically contrasting green Thai basil citrette/ balsamic reduction and soba noodle salad.
Korean Short Ribs (26) are the house favorite. The 12 ounces of tender beef is marinated and slow cooked Korean style, served with mashed potatoes and kimchi salad.
A man-sized appetite demands for the hand-cut 16 ounce boneless broiled Wagyu “Kobe” ribeye (42), with a wasabi bleu cheese crust, mashed potatoes, asparagus, and a port wine reduction.
Cantonese Roasted Half Duck (25) is marinated for 4 days, and baked so the skin is properly browned and crisp, with tender meat. This comes with a cucumber and ume (Japanese plum) sauce. Our neighbors were pleased with the Szechuan Peppercorn Grouper, topped with kimchi buter, with sides of black rice with shrimp, and kimchi (23), below.There’s quite a few gluten free menu items, marked with a red cross.

Dessert time? Go for theIce Cream Sandwich Trio’s (8) green tea, chocolate and vanilla (we had banana!) ice creams sandwiched between firm pastry cookies, and topped with a super rich Belgian chocolate sauce. Enough for two, it was finished before it melted.

The AZN Chocolate Caramel Fuji Apple (9) is dipped in caramel, then Belgian chocolate, then drizzled with white chocolate and chopped pecans. You can’t go wrong with either dessert. General Manager Scott Selznick visited each table, as did Anna Hsu, below, with Server Scott Christopher. Who’s the competition? Primarily the other Mercato spots and P F Chang’s. AZN can go chopstick to chopstick with P.F. Chang’s, and win. Charlie Chiang’s has a different niche, with relaxing riverside dining, unique dishes and dim sum. Sushi-Thai and Bonita Springs Paul Wong’s Pan Asian have their unique styles.

9118 Strada Place, Naples, 593-8818 Open 7 days; 11:00 am- 11:00 pm

Monday, November 9, 2009

.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Cultural Learnings from 2009 FGCU Sanibel Writers Conference for Make Benefit Writers

FGCU President Wilson Bradshaw Ever wonder what challenges writers and runners have in common? Each distance or level of competition calls upon specific talents. Explosive jackrabbits fly through 100 meters, sprinters race 400 meters, and lean marathoners pace long miles. Newspapermen sculpt succinct copy under deadline. O. Henry crafted timeless short stories in a dozen pages. Literary marathoners, the master storytellers, weave protagonists and prose into 400 page novels that you can’t put down. Pharmacist and bookkeeper O. Henry’s niche wasn’t managing money, writing long novels or counting pills. Today’s aspiring writers seek their niche, attending conferences and courting sage advice. Shin splints and writer’s block stymie runners and writers alike. FCGU sponsored keynote speaker Carl Hiassen and lecturer Julianna Baggott illustrate how runners and writers alike face and surmount personal demons and fears. Fear of failure and real failures weigh on wannabes and published pros alike.

How do you publish one book, let alone Carl and Julianna’s armfuls of over a dozen novels each? Yup, same way you get Carnegie Hall-practice, practice practice. Over 100 writing hopefuls each plunked down $300 at the evolving Sanibel Island Writer’s Conference at BIGARTS, proudly sporting newbie color-coded nametags as they attended pep talks, er, workshops. They chatted up published writers, editors and literary agents, hopeful that inspiration and recognition might waft over them. Judging by the half finished books left behind on airplanes or returned unread to publishers for shredding, there’s no shortage of mediocre (or talented) published writers. Perseverance, luck, and a soft-hearted/ deep pocketed publisher are essential. This triad trounces mere talent alone.

Carl Hiassen Chats with a Young Admirer.
While I enjoyed the invited writers' insights, FGCU has their own published staff, including Tom DeMarchi, organizer of the 2009 Conference and wife Karen Tolchin, who writes on transtextual enunciation, while her students ferret deep meanings from her breathlessly giddy Gulfshore Life food reviews. (Karen & Tom, below)Joe Wisdom covers compounding double-consciousness, Rebecca Totaro swarms over bubonic plague literature, while Jim Wohlpart recycles environmental sustainability and cracker childhoods. FGCU’s Dept of Two Languages and Literature’s courses might expand your horizon.

The Audience
Visiting writer (below left) Ishmael Beah from Sierra Leone, West Africa, survived hellish years to become the New York Times bestselling author of A Long Way Gone, Memoirs of a Boy Soldier. Photo with Peter Blaze Corcoran, (below right) FGCU Professor of Environmental Studies and Environmental Education.While my literary knowledge comes primarily from “Borat: Cultural Learnings of America for Make Benefit Glorious Nation of Kazakhstan” and R. Crumb, I benefited from Carl’s insights. Unable to write with a proper 17th century French Count’s perspective, he had to fall back on writing in the here and now. His kaleidoscopic Florida zoo is populated with greedy crooks and lusty dolphins; his bad guys float on lakes and rivers. His adult geared books sport two word titles like "Skinny Dip," "Team Rodent" and “Basket Case”, while his newer young reader books shout one-word titles like “Hoot,” Flush” and "Scat". You can't imagine the names he's given his kids. His books leaves a legacy that inspires readers to be mindful environment stewards. He exposes the politics that stymies heathy zoning, and allows condo developers’ to first stake out burrows, then pour tons of concrete, entombing owls and tortoises while alive. A writer who gets youngsters to set aside Wii, Facebook and Gameboy to actually finish a novel has my respect.

Julianna Baggott is a typical 30-something hausfrau, juggling the husband, 4 kids, charity work and a FSU writing post. Not! This diminutive dynamo published her first novel at age 22, and has #’s 12-14 in the pipeline today. She’s bright, funny, and a great storyteller. I didn’t hear all of her talk-attendees covered my young ears lest I hear anything that’s not politically correct, like "freedom of speech," or well chosen expletives. Like the Rolling Stones opening for the Beatles, her opening for the Hiaasen-seeking audience contributed to a vibrant one-two burst of inspiration, from both of their experiences.

There's no shortage of writers' workshops. Wanna get published, and not pay for a workshop? It's easy. Write well on what you know best, toss in a floater or two, befriend literary agents, and you'll be a highly paid published writer. There you have it.

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

ACF American Culinary Federation Caxambas Vendor Exhibit

The 3rd annual Vendor Showcase on October 26 featured different foodservice vendors and distributors, showcasing hundreds of tasty and innovative products. This is where chefs see and sample, learning how to add better quality and variety to their cuisine.

Denise Muir's Rabbit Run’s hydroponic produce via Jimmy Augustine's The Fresh Garden, gets my vote for tasty and beautiful. Chefs like Brian Roland artfully combine their produce with proteins, and customers fill up seats to savor his creations. Patrick Fevrier has long used his organic produce to create the best French cuisine in South Florida at Escargot 41.

Gourmet Gardener’s Kim and Randy’s Little Cypress Organics from Clewiston have the prettiest eggplant and squash blossoms
I’ve seen in a long time. I think IM Tapas uses their produce
Sysco presents Creekstone Farm’s new meats, Earthbound Farm’s organic veggies, and other non-organic produce.
Erik Tibcken of Halperns steaks and seafood offers the best in seafood. His ice sculpture incorporating fish and crabs is created by David Calandra of Run the Gamut’s “Ice Magic.”

North Star Seafood also features top quality fresh seafood. One lobster’s claw is larger than my hand, the crustacean must weigh 15 lbs!
Boar's Head provisions make the rounds.
Cory's Seafood rocks!
Gourmet Resources has amazing desserts at great price points-they have my vote!
Albert Uster Imports features clever molds, topped eggs, tartlets and cornets. Ricardo Ramirez of US Foodservice cooks delicious chorizos in Colombian (paprika), Brazilian (cilantro) and Argentinean styles. His empanadas and cheese arepas make some homesick for the real South American delights.
Cusano’s Bakery’s display says it all, for geat quality and variety. Italy's Fiordifrutta has a large variety of tasty organic, kosher, chemical free jams and spreads. Sweetening comes from natural fruits and apple juice, not gloppy high fructose corn syrup.
Wanna cook like El Bulli Chef Ferran Adrià with a Molecular Gastronomy’s chemistry set? Get “For the Gourmet” Texturas mini set. It has about 10 tiny grams each of 12 products-alginate, lecithin, gums and gels for $30 on Amazon. Read Alinea, and make carrot, mango, or even pizza “caviar.” While the kit lacks tapioca maltodextrin and other fun things-for $43, I’m not complaining! Soon, my mad scientist, you’ll use Chicken McNuggets' transglutaminase meat glue to craft more creative cuisines, play with lobster and banana foams, edible menus, and prepare powdered olive oil and rum.
Carlos and Paul from R. L. Schreiber offer a wide selection of spices, spice blends rich gravies and stocks. The American Culinary Federation Caxambas Chapter of Naples and Marco Island generously supports the students and the Culinary Arts programs of the Collier County School District through their Scholarship Fund and Grant Program.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Fast Marinating Steak in the Dryer, or Reveo Takes a Tumble!

Steaks love an overnight marinade; a luxurious long bath in savory seasonings. Skirt steaks demand Worcestershire sauce and chiles with a Cuban Mojo. NY Strips choose from vegetable oils, soy/teriyaki, vinegar/lime juice, red pepper, garlic, brown sugar, and hints of ginger, za'atar, rosemary harissa, or whatever is in in the spice rack. Marinade comes from "marinara", or "of the sea" in Italian. Before refrigeration, foods were preserved in salty solutions. Marinades typically have four components- an acid, oil, flavorful herbs and spices, and time. I used to seal steaks in a Baggie, and slosh it around, when I went past the fridge, over 12-24 hours. Problem is, sometimes you get home with just 30 minutes to get ready to grill or pan sauté a steak, and you want that juicy steak now! Here's ways to get that 24 hour marination, in just 20-30 minutes.

Years ago, my toystore, Sharper Image, had a $200 (now $100-140) simple toy, the Reveo, which combined a cheap-looking plastic vacuum container with a rock tumbler, to marinate steak in just 20 minutes. I researched the vacuum aspect. Turns out, adding vacuum to tumbling was a crafty sales gimmick. Neither magnets, waving duck feathers, vacuum containers, nor chanting "Om", adds much to a marinade's penetration, when using a tumbler's powerful action over that time. The USDA did the study research. Not shabby at all. . Ever see a rock tumbler? Picture a mini clothes dryer (below). My brother polishes minerals. Put minerals, grit and water in a tumbler, and lets the mess tumble in its rubbber drum for weeks. Steaks, much softer than agate and quartz, take only 20-30 minutes. Used small to large tumblers go for ~30-$60; none were on Craigslist that day. I splurged on Ebay for a big, brand new Thumler's AR-12 for $100, as it holds 2-3 good sized steaks, and when it's steak-free, my

brother can polish minerals. Decent new smaller tumblers go for $40-60.

I bought a $12 like new Foodsaver, which creates a vacuum in a container, just like the Reveo. It is wonderful for vacuum packing food in freezer bags-things keep for many months. I now needed to tumble the foodsaver's container, with marinade and a steak inside, to match the pricey Reveo for less.

To not waste space with my experiments, I found what the USDA discovered. Tumbling alone, IS wonderful for efficient marination. Tumbling plus vacuum does NOT not add any benefit. The tumbling and the weight of the steak, repeatedly stretches and retract the meat fibers, allowing the marinade to penetrate. There, you saved $100 by not getting a small Reveo, and you have a big mineral tumbler! If you really, really, must tumble steaks for pennies, double bag your steak/marinade in freezer Baggies, tape it in Tupperwear, and put it in your clothes dryer, along with clothes to soften the impact. Don't blame me if your whites look and taste like teriyaki.

With that background, I came home with a nice steak, and made shallow 1-2 mm deep knife slits in it, to better let the marinade penetrate. I put it in a baggie with enough air to let it flop inside, and tumbled it for 25 minutes. I dried off the steak, sprinkled sea salt, placed it with grapeseed oil in a preheated hot cast iron pan, searing both sides and around its rim. Do that in most kitchens, and smoke alarms shriek! My trick? Pan sauté steaks and fish outside. Why smell up the house?. I cook on the patio with an induction burner. I put a piece of newspaper between the burner and the cast iron, so grease doesn't get on the burner as I cook.

Searing Steak with Slits, with Cast Iron, on Newspaper Covered Induction Burner Don't try that trick with gas or regular elecric burners or it'll flame up! After searing the steak's surfaces, I finish it in a 400 degree (toaster) oven for about 8-10 minutes, (med-rare to med) then let it rest for 10 minutes before serving. Delicious, with a seared crust! Cleanup is fast. While steaks (and guests) rest, I use the pan's tasty bits for a sauce reduction. I then clean remaining oil off with clumped paper towel, add 1/3 inch of warm water, and boil. With tongs, I hold a clumped paper towel with tongs to clean off any stuck bits, then dry the pan. Next, lightly oil, then heat the pan-seasoning it. Wipe off excess oil, and put it away. This goes fast. Supper's ready! Steaks tumbled for a 20-30 minute marinade taste as if marinated for 24 hours.

Note: After this, I went on Amazon.com. Reveo now faces the $65 Marinade Master- another rock tumbler with silly vacuum-now at a more reasonable price.

There you have it. Whether you use your clothes dryer with Tupperware, a $40 used rock tumbler, or a $65 lightweight tumbler with mantra, vacuum or magnets, you can quickly mix your marinade components, tumble, and get great marination, in under 30 minutes!

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Richie’s Open Kitchen Family Restaurant- Naples Best Hamburger and Reuben

Richie’s Restaurant is regarded by many as having The Best Hamburger in Collier County. The Reuben Sandwich gets major respect, too. Richie’s has been a popular spot for freshly made food. It’s Naples insider’s “secret” for ten years, hidden on 3rd Ave North, across 41 from NCH Downtown Hospital. Nurses, doctors and Indian chiefs know it well; these regulars come here every day for great priced, generous portions of breakfast, lunch and dinner. All is prepared and served by one of the nicest husband and wife teams you’ll ever meet. Richie cooks everything to order in the open kitchen- my kind of place.

One customer says to me, "We’re all family here, extended family, and we share the good and the bad with Richie, Lynn, and each other, just like family at the table” In a true Mom and Pop restaurant, it takes only two to tango- and this couple are the only “two” here! They give Richie’s its down home warmth, like a 60’s diner or a Cheers-type local bar. Have a seat, and chat with Richie, or Lynn, who ably covers the front of the house. She knows hundreds of customers’ names and stories. They have worked together for 40+ years! One starts, and the other easily finishes a sentence. For flashy décor, vertical food, frozen foods, faux finishes, Frankenfood or chirpy robotic servers, get thee to a chain restaurant!

The shoe box-sized restaurant’s two-tone green walls are decorated with sculpture, florals and a pretty fish. Green table coverings with a leaf design top the ten inside tables. Two outdoor tables seat eight- in cool weather. Richie’s food quality is high, overhead and prices are low. Word-of -mouth praise keeps them busy. Tourist buses don’t line up here. Concierges are clueless. Jalopies park next to Mercedes at Richies, as down-to-earth regulars come in for honest, very good food.

Insiders know to call ahead and get take out. It’s not unusual to get an order combining six Reubens, and six Grouper Sandwiches, as one golfer recently called in, as he picked ‘em up and treated his friends to lunch. Richie caters birthday parties, and all sorts of occasions.
I met Tom and Beverly Snediker, who celebrated their 50th Wedding Anniversary with family and friends at Richie's; a warmly elegant candlelight setting, with twin lobster dinners.

Tom and Beverly, dining with Richie and Lynn
Another lady had her 50th birthday here. This is family,with regulars like the Snedikers, who have dined all over Naples. They choose to celebrate events, large and small, here with friends. There’s no robotic patter of “Hi, my name’s Biff. I’m from Lalaland” at Richie's. You are never rushed, as often happens elsewhere in season.

Breakfast is popular-prices range from $1.99 up to $6.99. Yes, nice and affordable. The Omelets-Cheese, Ham and Cheese, Western, Hot Mexican, and Vegetarian- are large, ranging from $3.99 to 5.99. Hungry friends favor the $6.99 Richie’s Big Breakfast’s three eggs, two pancakes, bacon sausage, home fries and toast. The Eggs Florentine, with potatoes, is popular. One child, a regular, flips over the European-Style Pancakes, made crepe-like, very thin, with crispy edges.

Richies’s has THE Best Hamburgers in Naples, hands down. These fresh, never frozen delights are large, weighing about 10-12 ounces, and are grilled to perfection. Walk up to the open kitchen, and watch as Richie work his magic! He grills the beef, then tops it with grilled onions, and adds lettuce, tomato, a pickle, and chips on the plate. It’s enough for two people, and only $4.99! Tender and juicy, it's too big for the bun! This truly two-fisted burger beats out any of the pricey, greasy, smaller and often previously frozen, overcooked burgers that may be found at spots like McDonald’s, Five Guys, Steak 'n Shake, Lindburgers , etc. No other hamburger comes close to Richie’s fresh, monstrous hamburger!

Richie’s Reuben Sandwich is also a legend, voted Best Sandwich in Naples. It’s large enough for two, bursting with fresh flavor. Who else makes thick layers of lean corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and a special Russian dressing so inviting? One woman is certain; “It’s the best Reuben you will ever eat!” Don’t pass up Lynn’s spicy homemade Chili; she promises “It will "knock your socks off.”

The fresh Grouper Sandwich uses real grouper; it’s been a favorite for a decade.
Quite a few anniversaries, birthdays, and just great times together have been shared at Richie’s.
.
Want something lighter? Try the Turkey and Ham Club Sandwich (below).
Dinner offers more upscale choices: Salmon with creamy garlic mushroom wine sauce: Sautéed Grouper with lemon, wine and garlic: large Frog Legs with a lemon wine sauce: NY Strip Steak, and Chicken Vesuvius, baked with special spices.
Wine is $4.95, and beer is $2.95 to 3.95-where else in Naples is this affordable?

Desserts are big, home made, and all $5.95. My favorite is the scrumptiously moist Chocolate Cake, enough to feed 3 people, that comes with two scoops of vanilla ice cream. Lynn’s Strawberry Shortcake is a huge portion. Kids go for the Zebra; a crepe filled with vanilla ice cream, and topped with chocolate sauce and powdered sugar. I want to try the Peanut Butter Ice Cream Pie and the Frozen Turtle Pie, rich with caramel and chocolate.

Faced with more cookie-cutter chain restaurants, people lament the “good old days”, and wish that Mom and Pop spots weren't dwindling. Here’s your chance today, to get a taste of how friendly and tasty a fine Mom and Pop restaurant can be. Bring a good appetite!

Richie's Restaurant, 947 3rd Ave North, Naples, Phone 263-2600

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Boy meets Balut, or "Eggs with Legs"

.
She offered me her forbidden fruit, a warm, light brown orb, and gently did I take it.

I have long known about balut. My Thai acquaintance, knowing my varied culinary interests, smilingly held up the brown egg, saying “This is balut. Do you want to try it?" Balut is a fertilized duck (or chicken) egg, boiled, then eaten. It’s a Philippine delicacy, also treasured across Asia, under other names. A fertilized egg is incubated in warmed sand , and often cooked and consumed on days 16-18, depending on how advanced one wants their embryonic prize to be. I took the warm egg home, wondering “Ok wiseguy, what are you going to do with this now?”

I didn’t ask the egg’s age. My parents didn’t raise me that way. It sat in the fridge for two days before I got around to researching, and cooking it. I’ve heard both sides of the balut controversy. To a balut aficionado, it’s a wonderful family tradition- fresh, natural, and free of preservatives. It’s can be used as a test, to see how a potential mate reacts to a cultural icon. To others, it’s primeval, repugnantly taboo. Some affirm humans should eat only things with roots or chlorophyll. I told myself- whether ingesting an embryo, pullet, magret, gizzard or old fryer, I'll be eating a unique form of poultry, and certainly not ingesting a bug or alien. I held the egg in my hand, hesitant and nervous about its impending taste and appearance.

The egg is 2.75 inches long- chicken- egg sized,- smaller than a Muscovy duck egg.

Joy of Cooking somehow left out balut recipes, as did other cookbooks. Googling “balut cooking” wasn't helpful- boiling times varied from 15 to 40 minutes. This egg was smaller than most duck eggs, so I warmed up water, put it in, and boiled it for 20.” I gathered salt, sweet chili dipping sauce, white vinegar, a Meyer lemon, and bagel chips, to better see what would best fit with balut. Sipping on a Chardonnay, I also had a cold beer at the ready. Twenty boiling minutes passed, and the intact, inscrutable egg calmly faced me, silently daring me to open its secrets. Would I face a tiny blob, or worse, a feathered and footed apparition? I set it in an egg cup, (incorrectly) pointy, smaller end pointed up. Tapping around the egg, I opened it toward the top, removing the resultant round “cap.” I gingerly took a sip of the warm, clear broth within. Not bad. I added a pinch of salt, and downed the rest of the broth, in a shot. It was tasty. “Tastes unlike chicken,” I thought. Attached to the cap is a nut-hard, clearly inedible concave disk of cooked egg white (below, on right), unlike anything I’ve seen. I set that aside. The disc of soft yolk looked up at me from within the shell. Gingerly, I turned the yolk over, and an embryonic blob, half the size of the yolk, was attached. "Whew, no feathers or feet,” I thought, “dodged that bullet. ” Still, at some level, I was not prepared to see this. I hesitated, put a dash of salt and lemon juice on the pair, and took a nibble. “Hmmm, Not bad.” In fact, it had a pleasantly rich foie gras taste, and unique creamy-solid consistency. The next mouthful was drizzled with Thai sweet chili dipping sauce. Its strength covered up the delicate taste. Another bite, and the balut was history.

The thought of eating a cooked embryo, rather than a whole chicken, can stop a grown man in his tracks. That thought just as easily propels other men or women, balut aficionados, to eagerly reach for the egg. I hesitated before "breaking" a Western taboo of eating "gross," or “weird” food. I try to appreciate another culture’s delight. While I could name lots of other proteins I’d much prefer, I could try balut again.

Oh, just one request, please. No “feathers and feet,” for this old bird.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Naples Swamp Buggy Parade 2009

Ginourmous swamp buggies, High School bands, ROTC students, airboats, and knee- high Shriners vehicles parade down US 41 in the Annual Swamp Buggy Parade. Later, the buggies competed in time trials, blew engines and bolts, readying for the real competition on Sunday I love a parade! The annual parade started long before condo's obstructed beach views and access, prissy SUV's were detailed, and hoity-toity shops with $300 shoes sprang up on once dusty 5th Avenue South. The community joins in to see their kids, neighbors, and vehicles that slog through swamps on six foot tall tires. Condo dwellers from New York sit next to Native Indians. Adults from Nicaragua cheer alongside bewildered Swiss and Syrian visitors. It's quite a crowd that gathers for a couple hours-the spectators are more colorful than those in the parade!





Saturday, October 24, 2009

Old World Market - Naples' Spot for Mediterranean, Bulgarian, Croatian, Greek, Turkish, and Many Other Regional Delights

Old World Market on Davis Blvd, just west of Shadowlawn Drive, has something good for everyone, offering over 900 items from Greece, Macedonia, Turkey, Bulgaria, Egypt, Albania, Croatia and Serbia, to name a few! During my visit, a Bulgarian quartet visiting from New Jersey beamed as they bought Bulgarian yogurt, French, Greek, and Bulgarian Feta cheeses, mineral waters by the liter, and cold cuts. One said, “This store has top quality foods (from back home) that we can’t even find in New York!” After filling up two shopping carts, off they went with their prizes, nibbling on some as they left! There truly are prizes here. Sample over fifteen (15) different feta cheeses alone, and a broad selection of perhaps 30 other cheeses, priced way less than at grocery stores. Muenster, Mozzarella, Swiss, Provolone, you know the ones! Let’s talk yogurt. Yoplait and other “yogurt foods” sadly are artificially sweetened with funky chemicals. A Yoplait Yogurt product’s label discloses the presence of gloppy “high fructose corn syrup”, and “modified” corn starch as the 2nd and 3rd most prevalent ingredients. Yoplait then tosses in MSG’s controversial chemical cousin- Aspartame, and Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Yellow #5, and Blue #1 to preserve and color the corn syrup, and make it cling like mucus to your lips. “Frankenyogurts” contibute to tooth cavities. Do corn syrup and MSG-type chemicals really belong in your food? There’s an easy, healthy solution.

Go to Old World Market to enjoy the far tastier natural, healthy yogurts. Old World Market has several, especially the Bulgarian varieties. The Dana Yogurt Drink has that welcome, natural touch of tartness with real Bulgarian Lactobacillus bulgaricus. Live longer, avoid Frankenyogurt’s corn syrup, calories and cavities. It’s that easy.

Owner “Moe” Momtchil Dimitrov originally hails from Bulgaria, and he knows well the nuances of Mediterranean region’s cuisines. His high quality selections are reflected in his customers smiles, as they buy and start drinking and nibbling, while still in the store! There are over 40 different cold cuts, at prices less than grocery stores, and more authentic in taste. I bought some Hickory Smoked Dried Beef (Suva Govedina) that is as tasty as any charcuterie from France or Italy. The Cured Pork Loin Elena is as beautifully lean and tasty as any Pastrami imaginable. The Beef (Sudzuk), and Pork Sausages sell fast. Take home slices of the best of Mortadella, Bologna, Dry Salami (Moskovskaya), Smoked Bologna, and Sorpressata. Slice these thin, have a sip of wine, and enjoy life’s simple pleasures. Like pierogies? Try these, or the similar looking pelmeni, all free of preservatives.Have a sweet tooth? There’s rows of sweets, free of Aspartame and MSG!. Vegetable spreads, caviar, Bulgarian flour? All here. Soon there will be wines and beer, as the store expands its offerings and customer base.

A rarity is Boza, a wheat drink that some customers buy by the case, when they find it! There’s a few dozen fruit drinks like sour cherry, that others were buying by the armful. With 900 items, stock up on halva, sauerkraut, Greek and other coffee beans-you start to understand the variety that’s here!

This type of attractive brown and tan clay casserole pots and pitchers have been used for centuries for cooking. Moe will give you recipes. Take your casserole pot from oven to table, so your family and guests know your food is cooked and served from your heart.

Who is competition? No one, really. Camilla’s Eastern European Market on the North Trail has different foods, from Russia and Eastern Europe. These two markets, each with unique regional foods, nicely complement each other. Same for Airport's European Food Market's Polish items.

2800 Davis Blvd,#103, (two blocks west of Airport Road, on the south side of Davis, set back in the new yellow two story new building) Naples, 692-3020 Mon - Saturday, 10:00 am - 7:00 pm www.oldworldmarket.info

10/29/09 ***SPECIAL OPPORTUNITY- Mr. Dimitrov says: "Just to say thank you for your support, please stop by anytime and YOU'LL RECEIVE 5% DISCOUNT ON YOUR ENTIRE SHOPPING BASKET just by mentioning this article." ***

Disclaimer: I do not receive any compensation for posting this. I want to see an independent market succeed. And, 5% off on great food is a deal!

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Naples' Bravo! Cucina Italiana - Dining Amidst the Ruins

Bravo Cucina Italiana, "Bravo!" opened October 19 at the Naples’ Mercato. Bravo will be doing well for a long, long time. With popular sister restaurant Brio a few miles away, this, the 88th Bravo/Brio Restaurant is attractive and quite well thought out. One diner said “All the servers I’ve met are so friendly and outgoing. I just hope they can stay that way.” After talking with Manager Justin Schwartz and General Manager Christopher Prince, I’m confident guests and servers will remain happy. The Mercato is designed for foot traffic. Bravo’s broad front patio area is attractively conducive to walking, with curved grassy areas. There’s outdoor plush seats, and tables under broad umbrellas. Inside, one is quickly greeted, and escorted to the indoor/outdoor bar, or to the large central room, with white Corinthian columns supporting truncated trusses-this is “dining among the ruins”, Bravo style. The walls are golden brown stucco, faux finished, with Italian influenced artwork. Huge, 5 foot diameter hemispheric brown and white speckled Murano-styled glass ceiling fixures supply light, along with hidden high-hat fixtures Nicely placed greenery adds color and warmth. I made a beeline to the open, perhaps 60 foot long open kitchen, as waitstaff repeatedly cried “guest on the line.” The food is cooked to order. It’s a beautiful showpiece, a frenetic, controlled chaos, both where the chefs are, and where the servers and public briefly can mingle. This working kitchen is well worth a view. For everyone’s safety, have a quick look. Though billed as a “family” restaurant, it’s perfect for well behaved kids, couples and moderate sized adult parties. There’s a private room opening out on the patio. Its single table seats 10 or, better, 8.

Servers, men and women alike, have white long sleeve shirts and ties, with dark pants and aprons. Elegant. They are an unusually friendly bunch-this comes from management and filters down.
Our animated server is Michaele My table fell in love with her flowing dark hair and her attentiveness to details. Faced with refilling identical glasses-some with water, and one with soda water, she never had to ask, and correctly filled each glass.

The menu is balanced. Prices are very reasonable. Dinner starts at 4 pm for true early birds. There’s plenty of dishes to choose from. Appetizers include Fried calamari ($11), Fried Ravioli (10), Bruschetta with Mushrooms and Boursin (10), and three flatbreads. The Grilled Steak Flatbread tempts with wonderfully seasoned sliced tenderloin, grilled medium rare, served over arugula, caramelized onions, portobellos and Reggiano cheese. Highly recommended. The Caesar salad is fine for $4. I prefer the more sensual Insalata Rustica (6), with its contrasting tastes and textures. Romaine, arugula and radicchio are tossed with fresh pears, dried cherries, spicy pecans, tender grape tomatoes, and my favorite, the crunchy taste bursts of crispy pancetta. The balsamic vinaigrette is applied just right.

The other appetizer/salad star is the Wood-Grilled Salmon Salad (15). This is enough for two, or three meals for a light grazer. Crispy fried shoestring potatoes and a good portion of tender moist grilled salmon sit atop field greens, tomatoes, several grilled asparagus, and it is topped with feta cheese and balsamic vinaigrette Highly recommended.

The Pizza Napoli (12) is baked before your eyes, if you go back to the gas-fired oven. It is a classic thin crisp crust with a nice layer of Mozzarella di bufala, Provolone cheese, a light smear of tomato sauce, and finished with a bit of crushed red pepper and a basil leaf. The red pepper is the key; just enough to give some heat.

I am neutral on the Lobster & Shrimp Ravioli (19). Lobster has a delicate taste. It could cost almost double the price to have enough inside to really see and taste the lobster, whose taste is competing with the greater amount of pasta and sauce. That’s why I rarely order this dish. Bravo’s version, with ample raviolis covered with a nice tomato sherry cream sauce is as good as many other places’ versions.

The Rosemary Grilled Shrimp is a keeper at $19. Five large Gulf shrimp, marinated in rosemary and garlic then perfectly grilled, are perched on a warm bed of orzo, sautéed with spinach, Kalamata olives, onions and pine nuts, then drizzled with a warm caper vinaigrette. Recommended.

The Petit Filets and Grilled Shrimp (29) has two filets. Their quality is the equal of most steak house’s, nicely grilled and lightly charred, giving a rich aged taste. A skewered quartet of nicely grilled medium shrimp is accompanied by grilled fresh vegetables-tomatoes, broccoli, squash green beans and carrots. The tasty freshly mashed potatoes are a nicely chunky.It’s a filling meal. Recommended.

The Sautéed Crab Cakes (20) offers two crab cakes with some lumps and strands of crab meat and moist filler, served with a horseradish dressing and parsley flakes. Sides are crispy potatoes and roasted green beans with red bell pepper. If you expect Baltimore style crab cakes, this isn’t for you. It’s more on the moist side, without large lumps of crab dominating every bite. The price and good quality are in line with other spots’ crab cakes-I’m just a fan of big lumps of crab and scant filler. My type can cost almost double this. As this review is from Bravo’s first week; crab cakes and other things may be tweaked.

Already full, we shared the the Torta di Cioccolata (7) a dense chocolate cake with a warm chocolate center, topped with vanilla bean gelato. A beautifully served, delight. Highly recommended. Other dessert include Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding (6), Warm Berry Cake (6), Tiramisu (7), Cheesecake with Caramelized Sugar and Crème Anglaise (7), and Crème Brûlée (5).

Who’s s the competition? Mercato’s Italian Piola’s serves 60 pizzas in a more intimate bistro setting. Two Brothers Baci, ~ a mile north, with delicious New York Italian style, has a more casual atmosphere, and live entertainment. Each fits a different niche. Bravo! vs sister Brio? I prefer Bravo’s Mercato setting and ambiance over more crowded and noisy Waterside's Brio. Bravo’s prices seem to be less than Brio's.
.
The “Mercato Experience” is a powerful magnet, a siren's call to dine, a destination unto itself. One-stop parking for shopping, dining and a movie. 250+ seat Bravo’s real competition is the larger upscale Mercato restaurants- Capital Grill, McCormick and Schmick’s and AZN. Location and table availability among the Mercato restaurants, not finer points of cuisine, may be the determining selection factor in season, when the Mercato’s nine national restaurants fill up. Such a problem for restaurants to have!

We’ll be back. To walk around the Mercato’s shops, then lunch on the patio, is a must-do in fall and in “Season”. We like Bravo's friendly staff. We gave extra plates to a nearby server who cheerfully took them away, instead of saying “I’ll tell your server”. Little touches tell all. This is just the first week. Bravo! Cucina Italiana will be one of the more successful Mercato destinations.
.
#88, 9110 Strada Place, Naples, 514-0042. www.bbrg.com

Monday, October 12, 2009

Naples Falafel Grill - Middle Eastern and Mediterranean Delights!

.
Val enjoyed Naples’ Falafel Grill, so I had to visit -just a few doors away from Saffron Indian Restaurant, and from Mimi’s and Asia Pok Market. Hidden in the angle of the L-shaped strip center behind the Hess gas station, it’s one for insiders! Charleston foodie Rya was telling owner Feibi (Phoebe) how she enjoyed her meal. She said she’d email me, so I could come taste it, and blog about it...and in I walked, right on cue! Blew my cover, and it didn't matter!

Fresh Carrots, Broccoli, Green Beans and Pita Bread
Ashraf and Feibi holding Falafel Sampler
It's only been open a few weeks, and already the customer demand has them staffing up for dinner It’s a couple’s spot, a family spot, and a popular take out delight. I enjoyed dining and people watching, while talking with nearby people. It is very casual- come as you are, and you’re fine. The interior is simple, not fancy, with pale green walls, tan tile floors, and comfortable seating at six gray topped tables. There's no definite "atmosphere" yet, that will follow.

Fresh, wonderfully spiced food is the magnet. It’s authentic, and the prices are 1/2 of some of Naples prices. Owners Feibi covers the front of the house, and husband-chef Raaf Gouda covers the back, along with Chef Ashraf. Lucinda, who visited Egypt years ago, is the general manager. The Goudas hail from Egypt. Raaf was at the Registry Hotel years ago. They bake the bread daily, and wash the chickpeas several times, till just right for the next step. A peek in the open kitchen shows fresh, plump eggplant, zucchini, carrots, and tomatoes.

Middle Eastern food is vegetarian friendly. There’s also chicken, beef and shrimp selections. Portions are big, prices small. Perfect for any budget. Three people can eat well, and still get change from a $20 bill-top that!

I had a bowl of the freshly made vegetarian lentil soup ($2.95 cup, 3.75 bowl), It has a delicious mix of seasonal vegetables, such as zucchini, carrots and tomato, and tasted of garlic, cilantro and cumin. A great start. Feibi Shows How to Wash ChickpeasFalafel is a vegetarian tradition. Chick peas are soaked overnight, crushed, and combined with onion, cilantro, parsley, and garlic. There may be caramelized onions, olive oil, and other local ingredients. Cumin and coriander are popular spices. Egyptian style favors fava beans Coptic Christians take credit for starting falafel. It has become a favorite of Palestinians, Israelis, and Syrians. A patty, cylinder, or more commonly a ping pong ball sized portion is quickly deep fried at about 370 degrees F., The falafel thus cooked have crispy goodness outside, and are luscious inside. Serve them plain, drizzled with tahina/tahini, or wrapped in a pita with lettuce and tomato. Falafel Grill’s Classic Falafel dish serves falafel with a mix or organic greens, tomatoes, onions and tahina sauce ($4.95).

The Supreme Falafel has falafel and minced garlic, and eggplante added to the Classic, for $5.95. I like the $5.95 Sampler, below, with hummus, tabouleh, and baba ghanoush in cups; the falafel patties aredrizzled with tahina. Deep fried pita bread wedges are wonderful on their own, or with the dips!

Falafel can even come with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese (5.95); there’s no end to the variations.

The Greek Gyro’s sliced lamb, with onion, tomato and tzatziki sauce (5.95), or the Kofta Kebab’s grilled spiced ground beef , are popular, along with grilled Mediterranean Chicken Breast (6.5), Spicy Shrimp (6.95) and the Fish Sandwich’s fried tilapia with signature sauce (6.95). Sides include Hummus’s pureed garbanzo beans, Baba Ghanaush’s spiced roasted eggplant, and Tabouli Salad’s cracked bulgur wheat, parsley, tomato and cucumber.

Dinners come with rice and a salad or vegetable. Tonight’s specials are Kofta Kebab for $9..95, Chicken Kabab (10.95, and Beef Kabab for $12.95. Mix and match!

Feibi and Family, Lucinda, Chef Ashraf, Mahesh and Partner
Feibi (pronounced like Phoebe, the bird) says, “ This is our first restaurant! There was no similar authentic Middle Eastern/Mediterranean food in SW Florida, so we wanted to start.” I asked the obvious next question, and she replied, “We may start a second restaurant in Fort Myers, or near Florida Gulf Coast University, we shall see!”

For dessert, I had the basbosa, a semolina flour-based dish with sort of a cornbread-like texture, with sliced coconut, hint of vanilla, eggs and nuts cooked, then drizzled with simple syrup. This is best paired with a dollop of its whipped cream in every bite. Baklava is also available.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner, are served, 10:30 am till 9 pm, closed Sundays. Call in an order, and pick it up, if on a tight schedule. There's kids meals with chicken nuggets, or hamburger and fries, each is $2.99.

2075 Pine Ridge Road, behind the Hess gas station, 514-1787